A Walk In the Woods

View from our balcony

We awoke in our rather salubrious hotel in Kinugawaonsen Hotel to the gentle pitter patter of moisture on our balcony. But, the day can’t be lost so we headed off in our raincoats, their second outing of our tour. We rode the train back to Nikko, a UNESCO World Heritage site town with a number of temples and shrines. These people aren’t very religious and we don’t hear church bells or the calling of the imam but they are very honest, polite and trustworthy. We resorted to hunting for geocaches among the temples and avoided paying entrance fees at almost every turn. I posed in front of the Shinkyo Bridge, about 250 years old as are the temples, with the obligatory Japanese finger salute. Not our best day out but we must never let a chance go by.

 Been said before I know but our second full day at Nikko dawned fine and clear with a 2% chance of rain. We headed up the valley to a small lake, Lake Yumoto. At 5000 feet above sea level this would put us a good way up Mt Egmont (8260 feet asl). The higher altitude had obviously brought on a few more frosts and the trees were turning their autumn colours and really looked picturesque, biscuit tin lids and calendars everywhere. We took a hundred photos I’m sure, it really was a delight. 

This walk was most unlike our last walk in Japan where we wandered along a 600 year old passage between two cities. This was Tongariro crossing stuff (not that we have done that and not that this was at the same altitude) but it was more in the wilds. A few others walking, far more puffing than us and very few birds and one monkey were all we saw of wildlife. I had hoped to see a herd of Sika deer which are becoming a pest due to high numbers. The forest is mostly deciduous trees of beech and oak with a few evergreen fir and thuja for contrast. I did spot a few silver birch trees which I dislike because they look so cold and deathly during winter when their foliage has all dropped. We did see rhododendron growing wild and it would have had white flowers if we had been here a few months sooner. 

While it was an 8 hour adventure half of that was taken up travelling in buses or trains or waiting for said vehicles. But it was a beaut day out. The road near the lake split into two roads - one way 2 lanes up and one way down. We thought the way up was pretty steep but the way down was unbelievable. 48 fairly short switchbacks big enough for 40 seater buses. It was pretty amazing and a very busy up and back tourist route.

4 hours of walking but 4 hours of buses and trains!

Back home to our fairly luxurious hotel the onsen beckoned as a means to alleviate the aching muscles (what few of them we have). I tried a quick rum but that didn’t really make any difference so down to the onsen we both went, Diana through the pink curtain, me through the blue. I’m feeling reasonably confident now in my nakedity so strip off, wash down at the milking station and head for the outdoor hot tub. Whoa..!!!, there are over a dozen men in here and I note a sidelong glance from each of them. I’m feeling like a polar bear in Soweto as I climb gingerly into the hot water and try to make myself as inconspicuous as possible. Not easy, there is a lot of chatter and I am presuming it is something to do with the size of my pecker or the fact that I’m circumcised. The polar bear has a sunburnt face but at least I am in the water now. What are they talking about, I smile and gesture as politely as possible and am very pleased when most of them leave within a few minutes. I am sure they aren’t talking about me personally as we are all on the same level in our birthday suits and what you got is what you have…men don’t do botox do they?

So an hour in the onsen and then dinner at the buffet station finished a perfect day out.

Time to watch rugby

We spent most of the day with Yumi and her family. Her and Yusuke picked us up from our hotel and took us to their house a few kilometres away where Yusuke (a professional chef) made our lunch. Magnificent spread with several species of raw fish, oddly, very edible. We had a wonderful time with Yumi, her 3 children (all very shy…as most Japanese seem to be) and Yusuke before he went off to work. Their home and living room is very similar to us at home however their sleeping space was one big room where all five of them slept together. We didn’t get taken there but it sounded a bit different from home.

After that it was towards Tokyo and while we were in the built-up area, it wasn’t Tokyo City. We stayed at Machida, took a train and the subway and had a catch up with Peter and Linda Keach. Peter was my boss when I worked for PF Olsen and like Diana and I they enjoy travelling in NZ and overseas. Later that day we got excited as we had tickets to the Brave Blossoms versus Springboks. We were hoping for an upset win to the Brave Blossoms and it seemed so were South Africa but Rassie must have had different thoughts and during the half time talk told them to change the plan. The Japanese crowd were amazingly supportive and dignified in defeat. I think they will now support the All Blacks.

To get to this game we had to use trains and subway and several changes on the way…this is not easy. This is something of a matter of luck, best guesses and prayers (which I don’t think will be honoured due to a lack of repentance). Getting from A to B has been a challenge almost every day. “B” is difficult to determine as our maps are not in English and many signs do not have an English version. At times we have been on the subway, a train is waiting and we run hoping it is going where we want. Once underway we watch the little blue dot on Google maps hoping that the dot is heading in the right direction. But as we didn’t know precisely where “A” was to start with we are struggling. Even when we know we have arrived at the right Station there are so often so many exits or entry points for different lines in all directions – we must look pretty woeful as people often offer to help us which is really nice. Surprisingly, despite not knowing where we have come from and unsure where we are heading we haven’t gone too far wrong…but there is always tomorrow.

So our first game of rugby out of the way and the All Blacks comfortably into the semis it was time for some R&R in the mountains north of Tokyo. We headed 2.5 hours north to Kinugawa Onsen, very near Nikko. This is a hot water town and we have given the onsen a bash with similar experiences as before. Diana has noted one good thing about sharing your bathing experience in an onsen is that gravity plays no part for those who have a D cup….until you have to step out that is!! Not sure I will go further into that discovery but I am sure you ladies get the drift. 

Our hotel is magnificent, on the 10^th storey with balcony to the river BUT no bed!! A hotel without a bed had us a little concerned but while away to dinner on the first night we arrive back in our room for bedding on the floor. Camping! But I thought very comfy. Diana put 2 futons together and was happy. We intend to walk in the Nikko National Park for a couple of days. There are mountains, waterfalls, lakes and vast plateaus. There are numerous walking tracks and we will try to conquer a couple of them in the next day or two. Fortunately there is the onsen at the end of the day to soak away any aches and pains, and a glass of rum if necessary.

Takamatsu to Oiso via Nagoya

 We had 2 nights in Takamatsu so we took a 2 hour train ride west to the capitol Matsuyama as a day trip. The major attraction was a castle that was built in early 1600. It is quite magnificent towering over the city with views to all corners of the compass and amazingly fortified. It has been through some hard times with lightning strike and fire, followed by arsonists and then the Americans used it for target practice during the 2nd world war. We spent quite a while walking through gates on different levels and climbing inside the well restored wooden building to the highest turrets.

We left Takamatsu northward at a reasonably high speed…..on the train. I can’t get over how good the train service is, clean, fast, right on time and very comfortable. I guess a population of 126 million helps with the economics of running these things. Our JR (nothing to do with the Ewings) pass has been of great value over the past week.

We stopped in Nagoya so that we could take an excursion into the countryside, away from the street lights and cement, and do some walking in the hills. On alighting from the bus we are walking the 100mtrs to the trail start in the small town. Sitting outside a shop was Peter Keach a friend we had cycled the Otago Rail trail with. We knew he and wife Linda were in Japan and had been arranging to meet them in Tokyo but had no idea where they were. What were the chances of that!! Unbelievable. We headed off on a short walk from Magome to Tsumago which is part of the Nakosendo Trail that ran through the country hundreds of years ago. Not unsimilar to the Awaroa trail that was brought to life a few years ago! We walked 8 km without too many others and enjoyed the bush, cedar trees and the lack of people but a bit disappointed in the deafening sound of birdsong which did not materialise.

Before we left Nagoya earlier today we had time to have a look through the Toyota Commemorative Museum and see where all our Corollas and Camrys came from. Old Mr. Toyoda was on to it and had a few yen behind his name with a very successful weaving and spinning factory. He got a bit interested in motor vehicle back in the 30’s and when his son completed a degree in mechanical engineering he started going places. I thought it interesting that when he needed components he seemed to angle towards buying the company that could supply him. At the moment Toyota own over a dozen companies most of which are internationally recognised. We took a photo of their first production saloon “Crown” – a motor car for the people.

Another fast train has brought us from Nagoya to Oiso where we will stay one night so that we can catch up with a young lady called Yumi. She came to our hostel about 25 odd years ago and of all the 45,000 people that came through our hostel over 26 years she stands out as being one of the most humble, patient and understanding people who visited. She is now married and has 3 children so it will be interesting to see how her life has evolved.

Takamatsu and the Onsen

We jumped hurriedly on the bullet train from Hiroshima today but we hardly left the station when a grumpy conductor told us we weren’t allowed on that train and told us to get off at the next station. In a stroke of luck we were only going one stop, about 100 kms though. We’d better read the red notices of our Rail Pass more clearly!!

Takamatsu is something of a small non-descript town on the island of Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s main islands. We are using it as a base for 2 nights to journey around the Island tomorrow.

We checked into our hotel after an hour walking in Ritsurin Garden which is world famous on this island. Quite nice, very Japanesey, no surprises there with quaint little bridges and bonsai type conifer (pine) trees. I think Pukekura Park in New Plymouth was better and I spent a fair bit of time there as a school boy…they even have a Japanese Bridge.

Back in the hotel, checked in and it is time to check out the “onsen”. This is usually a hot spring but ours on the 11^th floor didn’t seem to have quite that authenticity. First shock was that it was segregated, not blacks and whites but boys and girls. No worries, I didn’t have my camera anyway. First up you get yourself starkers, a bit uncomfortable in front of others these days but I’ll never see them again…and no one laughed, very polite the Japanese. You then need to wash completely so you line up at a booth similar to a modern dairy unit. Stainless steel piping, concrete wash away flooring and shampoo and conditioner. I was expecting to see teat salve on the shelf, but no. Mind you the ladies may have had it although I’ll never know due to the aforementioned segregation rule. The pool was 4m by 3m and about 400mm deep. (Roughly 15 inches for those still in imperial) and 40 degrees. I had 15 minutes of that, a quick rinse at the milking station then into the sauna for 5 minutes at 98 degrees. Another rinse and back in the big pool for 10 minutes and I’m well and truly cooked. I stood up to get out but most of my blood stayed in my lower body so I took things easy waiting for redistribution of blood. Another wash, and out to the changing room…carefully. I am very light headed and my muscles (if that’s what they are called now) seemed wasted, used up. I have never run a marathon but think I would feel like this (probably at the 10k mark!). I walk carefully sure that if my right leg gives out there is no way my left leg will recover me. I’m walking nimbly like a ballerina waiting for my strength to return. I am fairly pleased with myself stepping out of my comfort zone and gaining another experience but when I get to the lift and can’t read the numbers I realise I left my glasses in the pool area and need to go back. I’m not allowed in that room with my clothes on but due to my delicate state I’m not taking all my clothes off again so ease back in hoping no one notices. I did get a dirty look from someone I hadn’t seen before but what the hell, I’ll never see him again….not naked anyway!!!

The Land of the Rising Sun

Japan has been good for us so far. A bit windy due to the departing typhoon but not enough to put us off our game. Fukuoka was far enough south to avoid damage and allowed us to have our first day in Japan. Our first taxi ride in a Toyota 'Comfort' taxi (their own retro model), time to collect our rail pass and get ourselves prepared for the journey ahead.

Our first dining experience was different. Recommended (by Blair) that we try “ramen” we googled a likely spot and began the struggle. Turns out we had to buy a ticket, give that to a man, then proceed to a cubicle each (a bit like a betting window at the races). We fill out a “betting sheet”, I circled all options, green onions, chilli, garlic, pork and waited. Waitress back 2 minutes later to the ‘window’. I am provided with a bowl of broth, noodles and all the things I ticked. Tasty, it was very nice. We attacked with chop sticks and a soup spoon and cleaned the bowl. You then depart feeling somewhat guilty that you had eaten secretly, on your own, alone, by yourself. No words were spoken, tummy was full, we left the building, brushed ourselves off and carried on as if nothing had happened. A strange dining experience.

Hotel rooms are very small in Japan. They hardly have enough room to get our suitcase open and the bathrooms are about the size of the bathroom in our motorhome. Interestingly they have a modern set up on the toilet with an arm along the right hand side akin to a “collective” on a helicopter. This is the lever kitted out with switches that makes the helicopter rise and go faster. Well, these toilets have a thing like that which activates a water force on your bum, shower, squirt, change temperature and even “feathering”. I have had a go at all settings, including “kids” but can’t say it is the way forward. The warming of the seat though certainly could take off on those cold winter nights for when one has to sit down.

Transporting people between cities they definitely have sorted. Trains are the way to go. They leave the station every 30 mins or so, can travel up to 300 kms per hour, have very comfortable reclining seats and leg room suitable for basketball players. There is no clickety click but just an inspiring whoosh as they power off. This is called the Shinkansen or ‘Bullet train’.

We have had two nights in Hiroshima mainly to allow us to visit the Peace Park. There is a large sobering museum close to the site where the atomic bomb was detonated 600 metres above the ground 6 August 1945. Temperatures reached 3000 degrees Celcius and naturally (or unnaturally) almost everything was burned to a cinder. There were several stories of how families, and people, suffered from the effects of a nuclear bomb. Despite an active build up of nuclear armament after this initial activation, and another 3 days later in Nagasaki, it appears that this isn’t the answer to peace in the World. Fortunately the powers that be have taken action to reduce their number of bombs.

Survived building in the background

We managed to watch Ireland wipe away the Samoan rugby world cup effort despite having only 14 men, in “Mollie Malones”, an Irish pub in the middle of Hiroshima. A good smattering of Irish who took to drinking “Jagermeister” shots submerged and in a glass of Red Bull and skulling them following every Irish try. As expected there was a smattering result on the pavement following the match but it was all in good spirits and a lot of fun.

Our dining experience today was also different. An English lad at the pub recommended Okonomiyaki so after the Museum we let Google do the searching. Great just 100 metres away we entered a non-descript doorway to see a 4 mt long hotplate arrangement with perches to eat beside it. A menu in English was a bonus but it was all still a bit of a mystery. The guy sitting next to us had something tasty in front of him so we said we’d have the same. We watched the chef cook and assemble the pancake/noodle/ cabbage/beansprouts/bacon/egg/cheese ensemble brushed with a tasty sauce. Very tasty and we will add that to the repertoire.

We have been very fortunate to be in the West of Japan while the East has taken such a battering from the typhoon. The TV news of the devastation and flooding are just horrendous. They will have got such a lift from the Brave Blossoms winning their rugby game tonight. Tomorrow we take the train a little further east to another island.

More travels in Korea

We took a bus from Busan to Sacheon to see Jo and Andy Hay. Jo teaches new entrants at an International School and Andy gets English teaching jobs. We met Jo and Andy in Blenheim in 1986 when we first arrived there and while they are “old friends”, we haven’t seen them for 35 years. Still, it was good to catch up and spend 3 nights with them, see how they lived and visit some sites. We took in the Aeronautical museum which showed off Korea’s growing aeroplane industry and also took a local bus to the Jinju lantern festival. A spectacular array of lights on the river and parks which runs for two weeks.

From Sacheon we fast trained to Seoul, the capital, for 4 nights. On arriving we checked in to our hotel and discovered once again that they had an AED (Automated External Defibrillator) machine in a small suitcase in the room. Every hotel room we have stayed in seems to have one so closer inspection was required. Argh, not so. It was a length of rope for letting oneself down the outside of the building in times of emergency. And emergencies are regular. We have had 8 so far. They come in on our phone at all hours, state EMERGENCY ALERT, then have a paragraph of hieroglyphics. Very handy at 3.00am with a tsunami warning, us on the 9^th floor with a piece of rope, a body weighing 85kgs and biceps that have a maximum tare weight of 70kgs! I could see a very broken body with rope burned fingers lying on the pavement below every window in the street.

In Seoul we had a lady from the Auckland office of the company that I do some work for in Blenheim. She has fluent English and took us places where the company paid all our fees and bought us meals, very generous bonus we thought. We visited Seoul’s sky tower, a cultural village 600 years old, the war museum where we saw that 6000 kiwi soldiers fought in 1950-53 and 45 lives were lost.  Quite bloody though with thousands of Koreans and Americans getting killed in the name of peace. There is still a “cold war” attitude with North Korea and we visited the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) about 35kms north of the city. Looking across the DMZ which includes a river we could see people walking about on dusty roads living in small rural houses while on the south side there are skyscraper apartment buildings (50% of people in Seoul live in apartments) and tarseal 4 lane highways with flash Hyundai and Kia cars by the thousand.

Food in Korea has been surprisingly delicious. Just about everything has been really tasty. One of their main dishes is Kimchi…preserved cabbage. My first taste didn’t go well but after continual bombasting of my taste buds I found it edible. I wouldn’t walk across the road to get it mind you. One evening we stopped off at a Cat café for hot chocolate before bedtime. There were about 50 cats, of all species, colours and sizes. They walked wherever they wished, on tables, on the till and generally lay about wherever they pleased just like cats do really.

For a day trip we crossed the peninsula to the east, a two lanes each way road, 35 tunnels and 58 viaducts so the road is almost flat.  These guys seem to love digging tunnels, the average self-respecting mole would be embarrassed. One tunnel was 11kms long and throughout it has noises and surface changes to make different noises as you drive over. So, we hear police sirens, whistling, ambulance sound and rumble strips. Lighting also changes as you move through with rainbow colours around the inside and flood lights and spot lights. A Korean voice also says to slow down no matter what speed you are doing. But the roads are in very good condition, safe it seems and speed limit is mostly 100k/hr.

Our last night out was with one of the chiefs from the company I work for and we were treated to a 6 course meal in a very nice restaurant with a fine bottle of Italian red wine. No NZ wine to be seen in any of the places we looked, and these guys drink plenty. 

Our visit to Korea ends today Friday (Happy Birthday Rodger) and we fly on to Fukuoka in the south of Japan hoping to avoid the approaching typhoon but that will be more good luck than good management. 

PS We really enjoyed our hotel in Seoul. The room was minute but we have had no time to spend in it and the bed was comfy. The highlight is the Myeongdong area it was situated in. It is a hive of shopping, market activity and street food every day and night till late. We have always felt completely safe in Korea and the people are incredibly polite and helpful. The trendy fashion shops are numerous but even if I was interested I’m sure they would not have my size!! The food is an experience in itself. You order one dish and it comes accompanied by 6 side dishes and soup. The amount of washing up must be ridiculous. D

Busan, South Korea

Our journey started with a fairly hectic flight schedule to South Korea. First 13 hours to Hong Kong, a few hours wait, then 4hrs to Busan, another wait, then a 45 minute flight to Jeju Island. It was long but we survived and pleased to get ourselves horizontal in the Orange Tree Hotel. We were only pleased for a few minutes as we then discovered that they haven’t discovered innersprung or foam mattresses on Jeju and instead of down pillows they opt for mortar filled pillows. It is little wonder they work so hard over here, the less time they suffer in bed the better. 

Jeju Island was recommended to us by my Korean masters (when I am working back in Marlborough). They explained it was like Queenstown is to New Zealand. The island is about the same size as Stewart Island and although we had a good wander around and did take a guided day Tour we think that Queenstown is a far more enviable destination. We walked to the top of a small hill, the whole island is a volcanic remnant, and got some exercise while doing that. Along all the city walking paths there is exercise equipment free to stretch your muscles and generally extend ligaments whenever you wish. I had a go on a few of those, some of which were excellent.

Our Day Tour was to have included a hike on the lower slopes of a volcano. Mt Hallasan is Korea's tallest mountain at 2000 mtrs. However the day before saw torrential rainfall and we were unable to go up the mountain. We couldn’t even see the mountain and had showers all day. Instead we visited two tea farms, a magic house aimed at 10 year olds, a UNESCO Geological Heritage area, a Temple and dined on traditional Korean tucker. All in all the rearranged tour was rather underwhelming and sometimes you just have to miss things, as many people do with Mt Cook when they visit NZ. 

 

However on Jeju we discovered that Korean food is tasty, not too spicy and most enjoyable. We visited an underground shopping centre that had corridors of shops in every direction. How many people down there that have been missing for months is unimaginable. We were careful to keep our bearings and pleased to get out exactly where we wanted to be.

After 3 nights on Jeju we flew back to Busan on the mainland. Unfortunately a typhoon blew in on the morning of our departure and while our flight was delayed, several others delayed or cancelled, we got away for a fairly bumpy 45 minute flight to Busan International. Taxi to our Queens Hotel was easy and even at 11.00am our room was ready. And they have innersprung mattresses! We went walking in the rain and 30 degree heat. Found out that 500mls of beer cost $6.00 as does a packet of cigarettes. We live streamed the All Blacks playing Canada, presumably free because they are a non-rugby playing nation and the IRB want to encourage the game in countries yet see the light.

Our last day in Busan we have spent getting some “Kulchar”. We used local buses to get to Gamcheon Culture Village where 10,000 of the most poor people in Busan live. By opening the village up to tourism they have been able to raise the standard of living for the inhabitants who run a multitude of small businesses…however they do have to put up with thousands of tourists wandering through their backyards.

Using public transport and in fact trying to find anything is a challenge. There are sign boards in most places we have visited with information in four languages…but no English. Mostly hieroglyphics, we can’t even pronounce what or where we want to go. People don’t speak English but they are very patient, very warm and welcoming and understanding of our pointing and posturing. We haven’t been lost or hungry so doing just fine.