Takamatsu to Oiso via Nagoya

 We had 2 nights in Takamatsu so we took a 2 hour train ride west to the capitol Matsuyama as a day trip. The major attraction was a castle that was built in early 1600. It is quite magnificent towering over the city with views to all corners of the compass and amazingly fortified. It has been through some hard times with lightning strike and fire, followed by arsonists and then the Americans used it for target practice during the 2nd world war. We spent quite a while walking through gates on different levels and climbing inside the well restored wooden building to the highest turrets.

We left Takamatsu northward at a reasonably high speed…..on the train. I can’t get over how good the train service is, clean, fast, right on time and very comfortable. I guess a population of 126 million helps with the economics of running these things. Our JR (nothing to do with the Ewings) pass has been of great value over the past week.

We stopped in Nagoya so that we could take an excursion into the countryside, away from the street lights and cement, and do some walking in the hills. On alighting from the bus we are walking the 100mtrs to the trail start in the small town. Sitting outside a shop was Peter Keach a friend we had cycled the Otago Rail trail with. We knew he and wife Linda were in Japan and had been arranging to meet them in Tokyo but had no idea where they were. What were the chances of that!! Unbelievable. We headed off on a short walk from Magome to Tsumago which is part of the Nakosendo Trail that ran through the country hundreds of years ago. Not unsimilar to the Awaroa trail that was brought to life a few years ago! We walked 8 km without too many others and enjoyed the bush, cedar trees and the lack of people but a bit disappointed in the deafening sound of birdsong which did not materialise.

Before we left Nagoya earlier today we had time to have a look through the Toyota Commemorative Museum and see where all our Corollas and Camrys came from. Old Mr. Toyoda was on to it and had a few yen behind his name with a very successful weaving and spinning factory. He got a bit interested in motor vehicle back in the 30’s and when his son completed a degree in mechanical engineering he started going places. I thought it interesting that when he needed components he seemed to angle towards buying the company that could supply him. At the moment Toyota own over a dozen companies most of which are internationally recognised. We took a photo of their first production saloon “Crown” – a motor car for the people.

Another fast train has brought us from Nagoya to Oiso where we will stay one night so that we can catch up with a young lady called Yumi. She came to our hostel about 25 odd years ago and of all the 45,000 people that came through our hostel over 26 years she stands out as being one of the most humble, patient and understanding people who visited. She is now married and has 3 children so it will be interesting to see how her life has evolved.

Takamatsu and the Onsen

We jumped hurriedly on the bullet train from Hiroshima today but we hardly left the station when a grumpy conductor told us we weren’t allowed on that train and told us to get off at the next station. In a stroke of luck we were only going one stop, about 100 kms though. We’d better read the red notices of our Rail Pass more clearly!!

Takamatsu is something of a small non-descript town on the island of Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s main islands. We are using it as a base for 2 nights to journey around the Island tomorrow.

We checked into our hotel after an hour walking in Ritsurin Garden which is world famous on this island. Quite nice, very Japanesey, no surprises there with quaint little bridges and bonsai type conifer (pine) trees. I think Pukekura Park in New Plymouth was better and I spent a fair bit of time there as a school boy…they even have a Japanese Bridge.

Back in the hotel, checked in and it is time to check out the “onsen”. This is usually a hot spring but ours on the 11^th floor didn’t seem to have quite that authenticity. First shock was that it was segregated, not blacks and whites but boys and girls. No worries, I didn’t have my camera anyway. First up you get yourself starkers, a bit uncomfortable in front of others these days but I’ll never see them again…and no one laughed, very polite the Japanese. You then need to wash completely so you line up at a booth similar to a modern dairy unit. Stainless steel piping, concrete wash away flooring and shampoo and conditioner. I was expecting to see teat salve on the shelf, but no. Mind you the ladies may have had it although I’ll never know due to the aforementioned segregation rule. The pool was 4m by 3m and about 400mm deep. (Roughly 15 inches for those still in imperial) and 40 degrees. I had 15 minutes of that, a quick rinse at the milking station then into the sauna for 5 minutes at 98 degrees. Another rinse and back in the big pool for 10 minutes and I’m well and truly cooked. I stood up to get out but most of my blood stayed in my lower body so I took things easy waiting for redistribution of blood. Another wash, and out to the changing room…carefully. I am very light headed and my muscles (if that’s what they are called now) seemed wasted, used up. I have never run a marathon but think I would feel like this (probably at the 10k mark!). I walk carefully sure that if my right leg gives out there is no way my left leg will recover me. I’m walking nimbly like a ballerina waiting for my strength to return. I am fairly pleased with myself stepping out of my comfort zone and gaining another experience but when I get to the lift and can’t read the numbers I realise I left my glasses in the pool area and need to go back. I’m not allowed in that room with my clothes on but due to my delicate state I’m not taking all my clothes off again so ease back in hoping no one notices. I did get a dirty look from someone I hadn’t seen before but what the hell, I’ll never see him again….not naked anyway!!!

The Land of the Rising Sun

Japan has been good for us so far. A bit windy due to the departing typhoon but not enough to put us off our game. Fukuoka was far enough south to avoid damage and allowed us to have our first day in Japan. Our first taxi ride in a Toyota 'Comfort' taxi (their own retro model), time to collect our rail pass and get ourselves prepared for the journey ahead.

Our first dining experience was different. Recommended (by Blair) that we try “ramen” we googled a likely spot and began the struggle. Turns out we had to buy a ticket, give that to a man, then proceed to a cubicle each (a bit like a betting window at the races). We fill out a “betting sheet”, I circled all options, green onions, chilli, garlic, pork and waited. Waitress back 2 minutes later to the ‘window’. I am provided with a bowl of broth, noodles and all the things I ticked. Tasty, it was very nice. We attacked with chop sticks and a soup spoon and cleaned the bowl. You then depart feeling somewhat guilty that you had eaten secretly, on your own, alone, by yourself. No words were spoken, tummy was full, we left the building, brushed ourselves off and carried on as if nothing had happened. A strange dining experience.

Hotel rooms are very small in Japan. They hardly have enough room to get our suitcase open and the bathrooms are about the size of the bathroom in our motorhome. Interestingly they have a modern set up on the toilet with an arm along the right hand side akin to a “collective” on a helicopter. This is the lever kitted out with switches that makes the helicopter rise and go faster. Well, these toilets have a thing like that which activates a water force on your bum, shower, squirt, change temperature and even “feathering”. I have had a go at all settings, including “kids” but can’t say it is the way forward. The warming of the seat though certainly could take off on those cold winter nights for when one has to sit down.

Transporting people between cities they definitely have sorted. Trains are the way to go. They leave the station every 30 mins or so, can travel up to 300 kms per hour, have very comfortable reclining seats and leg room suitable for basketball players. There is no clickety click but just an inspiring whoosh as they power off. This is called the Shinkansen or ‘Bullet train’.

We have had two nights in Hiroshima mainly to allow us to visit the Peace Park. There is a large sobering museum close to the site where the atomic bomb was detonated 600 metres above the ground 6 August 1945. Temperatures reached 3000 degrees Celcius and naturally (or unnaturally) almost everything was burned to a cinder. There were several stories of how families, and people, suffered from the effects of a nuclear bomb. Despite an active build up of nuclear armament after this initial activation, and another 3 days later in Nagasaki, it appears that this isn’t the answer to peace in the World. Fortunately the powers that be have taken action to reduce their number of bombs.

Survived building in the background

We managed to watch Ireland wipe away the Samoan rugby world cup effort despite having only 14 men, in “Mollie Malones”, an Irish pub in the middle of Hiroshima. A good smattering of Irish who took to drinking “Jagermeister” shots submerged and in a glass of Red Bull and skulling them following every Irish try. As expected there was a smattering result on the pavement following the match but it was all in good spirits and a lot of fun.

Our dining experience today was also different. An English lad at the pub recommended Okonomiyaki so after the Museum we let Google do the searching. Great just 100 metres away we entered a non-descript doorway to see a 4 mt long hotplate arrangement with perches to eat beside it. A menu in English was a bonus but it was all still a bit of a mystery. The guy sitting next to us had something tasty in front of him so we said we’d have the same. We watched the chef cook and assemble the pancake/noodle/ cabbage/beansprouts/bacon/egg/cheese ensemble brushed with a tasty sauce. Very tasty and we will add that to the repertoire.

We have been very fortunate to be in the West of Japan while the East has taken such a battering from the typhoon. The TV news of the devastation and flooding are just horrendous. They will have got such a lift from the Brave Blossoms winning their rugby game tonight. Tomorrow we take the train a little further east to another island.